AGAINST THE GRAIN

2013

 

| HONEYCOMB PLEAT SMOCKING AND CONCEPTUAL EXPLORATION OF GRAIN IN SILK |

The white silk habitai garments belong to a suite of 3 hand-stitched, pleated dresses.  The key element in this undertaking was to explore the act of making; how to imbue value and meaning into each piece to add a level of individuality and value to the wearer.  The garments are not intended to be practical, wearable clothes but rather an artistic exploration of process and the interaction of textiles with the body.

 

Each piece is made with zero wastage, the artisanal hand stitched honeycomb pleating creates the retraction and expansion of volume around the body, removing the need for panels and pattern pieces.

At the hem of each garment exists an internal channel that allows for a silk covered metal chain to be threaded through.  The weight of this feature pulls the silk taught, and when wet, acts as a self-pleating device as the garment dries.  Through this action, the wearer creates an entirely different ray of pleats each time and becomes involved in the life of the garment.

 

The photoshoot conceptually travels through the journey of the garments, its process and the interaction of the textiles with the body.  The emotive use of wind and water heightens the interplay of vulnerability and delicate fragility that coexists between garment and wearer.

 

Garments: Natalie Kieleithner  Photography: Bryan Tang FacetsPhotos  Model: Josephine Giles  HMUA: Victoria Lenard